Q: WHAT IS IT ?
CREAM, (friction & buffing polish) is a NON TOXIC
one application, cream version of Shellawax woodturners friction polish the fastest and
easiest to use polish of its kind on the market today.
Q: WHY A CREAM
was designed specifically for the use of woodturners. Shellawax Cream however,
is designed to be used not only by woodturners, but also by woodcarvers, and
for use on small flat surfaces. On the lathe it gives a brilliant shine in
seconds, can be handled immediately, is non toxic
and water resistant. On woodcarvings and flat surfaces it gives a rich deep
shine in a matter of minutes.
Q: WHY USE SHELLAWAX CREAM ON
THE LATHE INSTEAD OF SHELLAWAX
Shellawax dries almost instantly when applied to spinning timber, when used
on large spindles, bowls, etc. you get fine lines on the surface
which look like sanding marks. These are caused by the weave of the
material used to apply the polish, being set into the surface of the polish
as it dries. Shellawax Cream alleviates this problem completely. So for all
larger turned work Shellawax Cream is the best product to use. On
small objects like pens etc. there is still nothing better to use than
Shellawax in the liquid form
Q: WHATS IN IT ?
A: SHELLAWAX CREAM
is a fusion mixture of white shellac and a number of waxes including Carnauba wax &
Contrary to popular belief
neither Shellawax or Shellawax Cream contain Shellac Wax.
Before you use SHELLAWAX CREAM it is
advisable to put in some fine preparation work with abrasive paper. The finer you sand the
better your finish will be. Otherwise you are wasting your time and polish . For most work
the best results are obtained when sanding is carried through to 1200 grit or more. At
worst you should sand to at least 400 grit for a reasonable result.
SHELLAWAX CREAM is not a grain
filling finish. It is not like polyurethane or other surface finishes where you can slap
on a couple of coats and end up with the sanding marks filled. Quite the contrary. This is
a finish that is in the timber as much as it is on the timber. It is basically unlike any
other finish you have ever used before.
It looks like a
full blown French polish on a grand piano and brings out lights and grain in
the timber that you would never have known were there. It feels like you are
touching the timber, but now the timber has an almost sensual feel to it,
like it has become silk. It can add a whole
new dimension to a turned item in a matter of seconds. Sounds too good to be
true, but it is.
When you have finished sanding you apply SHELLAWAX
CREAM as follows............
For General Application
With the lathe stopped. Use a clean soft
rag to quickly and evenly apply a thin coat of the Shellawax Cream to the work (the best
rag to use is old flannelette sheeting or clean white T-shirt material). Turn the lathe on
and with the cream moistened portion of the rag apply a steady heavy pressure to the work
whilst slowly moving the rag over the entire piece. This heavy pressure is required to
burn the Cream into the surface of the timber and and create the friction to make the
polish shine like you have never seen before
Right: The red bowl was finished
to a high shine whilst the yellow was finished to a satin sheen both were done with
Shellawax Cream. The colouring is our Non Toxic Water Dye. The yellow bowl was turned
green the red was dry.
For small pieces (pens etc.)
The cream may be applied directly to the
work with the lathe still running. Apply with a soft clean rag using a heavy
Work the cream moistened portion of rag over the the entire piece until the face of the
rag is dry and hard.
For Bowls & Lidded Containers
Sand with abrasive grits up to 1200 or more
to get a smooth line free finish on bowls and large platters etc. prior to applying the
polish. Always stop the lathe before using SHELLAWAX CREAM on a bowl. Apply the
cream before turning the lathe back on otherwise the cream will just be thrown off the
work and you will get a patchy result.
Apply as per instructions for General
Stop the lathe, sparingly
apply an even coating of the cream to the whole surface of the work rubbing it in until
the rag starts to drag, allow polish to dry ( this takes 3 minutes depending on
temperature). When dry turn the lathe on and buff the work with a clean soft piece of
cloth (use medium to heavy pressure on the cloth turning frequently to ensure that no
build up of cream remains on the work).
Sand and finish your work as you normally would.
Using as fine a grit as possible. Apply a thin coating of the cream with a clean
boot-brush or a soft bristled toothbrush, making sure to get into intricate designs and
Allow the polish to dry, (this could take
from 3 to 5 minutes depending on the weather). With another clean boot-brush polish the
surface as you would a pair of shoes. The highlights may also be buffed with a clean soft
piece of rag.
Do not apply the cream too heavily. Make
sure you rub all surfaces well so as not to leave any polish in fine details, undercuts.
ON FLAT SURFACES
Small surface application:
Prepare the surface by sanding with
abrasive paper up to 400 grit minimum.
Use a clean soft rag. Dip this into the
cream then put dobs of the cream on the surface of the timber approximately 2" -
3" apart (50mm - 75mm) quickly and evenly spread these dobs over the surface of the
wood stop rubbing when you feel the rag start to drag. Allow the polish to dry, then buff
with a clean piece of soft cloth, turning the cloth regularly.
Large surface application:
When working on a large surface it is best
to break the application down into a series of small sections approximately 300mm square.
Apply the cream as described above to each of these small sections until the whole piece
is covered. Allow to dry then buff off as for small surface application.
The work is much easier if a mechanical
buff is used. This can be a sheepskin, material or a circular brush, but BE WARNED you
will not get a high shine if you use a high speed buff which is brand new or if you use a
circular brush on high speed. The best buff for use with Shellawax, EEE
Ultra Shine, Traditional Wax etc are our Swansdown Mops.
A higher shine will always be achieved
on a flat surface if the polish is hand buffed after buffing mechanically.
You can further enhance a satin finish on
flat work by applying a coat of our Traditional Wax.
IN ALL CASES THE
SECRET TO A GREAT FINISH IS IN THE SURFACE PREPARATION
On most work it is best to
use at least the following grit papers. 180, 240, 320, 400 and preferably finer if desired. On pens etc. (on
the lathe) also use 600, 800, 1000, 1200 grits & up to 2000 if desired.
First time users are advised
experiment on a scrap piece of timber before applying
Shellawax Cream to their first work piece. This will give you some insight into
how much sanding is needed, how the polish works, best application
AS A THINNER
Use Shellawax as a thinner for Shellawax Cream, which often thickens with
use. This will also extend the life of the Cream.
Shellawax Cream is only available in 250ml plastic jar with foil wads in
It is no longer available in glass jars and has not been since July 2013
All overseas jars are induction sealed for security and safety.
A FEW SIMPLE HINTS
U-Beaut Polishes and their agents, accept no responsibility for problems
arising from the use of
Cream over: any oil, sanding sealer, oil or spirit based dye or stain, water
or any other finish - including, polyurethane, lacquer, varnish,
French polish, cyanoacrylate (superglue), etc.
If you are not
getting a brilliant finish
Don’t blame the polish!
the above instructions
and if it’s
still not working for you. Try the
more information, hints, tips and fixes for almost any problem you are
likely to encounter
In its cream form Shellawax Cream
contains TURPENTINE & ETHANOL
KEEP AWAY FROM NAKED FLAMES &
IF SWALLOWED SEEK IMMEDIATE MEDICAL ADVICE