SHELLAWAX CREAM
(GENUINE ONE APPLICATION WOODTURNERS FRICTION POLISH )
 

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Q: WHY USE SHELLAWAX CREAM ON THE LATHE INSTEAD OF SHELLAWAX

A: Shellawax dries almost instantly when applied to spinning timber, when used on large spindles, bowls, etc. you get fine lines on the surface which look like sanding marks. These are caused by the weave of the material used to apply the polish, being set into the surface of the polish as it dries. Shellawax Cream alleviates this problem completely. So for all larger turned work Shellawax Cream is the best product to use. On small objects like pens etc. there is still nothing better to use than Shellawax in the liquid form

Q: WHAT’S IN IT ?

A: SHELLAWAX CREAM is a fusion mixture of white shellac and a number of waxes including Carnauba wax & Bees wax.

Before you use SHELLAWAX CREAM it is advisable to put in some fine preparation work with abrasive paper. The finer you sand the better your finish will be. Otherwise you are wasting your time and polish . For most work the best results are obtained when sanding is carried through to 1200 grit or more. At worst you should sand to at least 400 grit for a reasonable result.

SHELLAWAX CREAM is not a grain filling finish. It is not like polyurethane or other surface finishes where you can slap on a couple of coats and end up with the sanding marks filled. Quite the contrary. This is a finish that is in the timber as much as it is on the timber. It is basically unlike any other finish you have ever used before.

It looks like a full blown French polish on a grand piano and brings out lights and grain in the timber that you would never have known were there. It feels like you are touching the timber, but now the timber has an almost sensual feel to it, like it has become silk. It can add a whole new dimension to a turned item in a matter of seconds. Sounds too good to be true, but it is.

FOR WOODTURNERS

When you have finished sanding you apply SHELLAWAX CREAM as follows............

For General Application

With the lathe stopped. Use a clean soft rag to quickly and evenly apply a thin coat of the Shellawax Cream to the work (the best rag to use is old flannelette sheeting or clean white T-shirt material). Turn the lathe on and with the cream moistened portion of the rag apply a steady heavy pressure to the work whilst slowly moving the rag over the entire piece. This heavy pressure is required to burn the Cream into the surface of the timber and and create the friction to make the polish shine like you have never seen before

Right: The red bowl was finished to a high shine whilst the yellow was finished to a satin sheen both were done with Shellawax Cream. The colouring is our Non Toxic Water Dye. The yellow bowl was turned green the red was dry.

For small pieces (pens etc.)

The cream may be applied directly to the work with the lathe still running. Apply with a soft clean rag using a heavy pressure. Work the cream moistened portion of rag over the the entire piece until the face of the rag is dry and hard.

For Bowls & Lidded Containers etc.

Sand with abrasive grits up to 1200 or more to get a smooth line free finish on bowls and large platters etc. prior to applying the polish. Always stop the lathe before using SHELLAWAX CREAM on a bowl. Apply the cream before turning the lathe back on otherwise the cream will just be thrown off the work and you will get a patchy result.

High Shine

Apply as per instructions for General Application above.

Satin Finish

Stop the lathe, sparingly apply an even coating of the cream to the whole surface of the work rubbing it in until the rag starts to drag, allow polish to dry ( this takes 3 minutes depending on temperature). When dry turn the lathe on and buff the work with a clean soft piece of cloth (use medium to heavy pressure on the cloth turning frequently to ensure that no build up of cream remains on the work).

FOR WOODCARVERS

Sand and finish your work as you normally would. Using as fine a grit as possible. Apply a thin coating of the cream with a clean boot-brush or a soft bristled toothbrush, making sure to get into intricate designs and undercuts etc.

Allow the polish to dry, (this could take from 3 to 5 minutes depending on the weather). With another clean boot-brush polish the surface as you would a pair of shoes. The highlights may also be buffed with a clean soft piece of rag.

Do not apply the cream too heavily. Make sure you rub all surfaces well so as not to leave any polish in fine details, undercuts. stippling, etc.

ON FLAT SURFACES

Small surface application:

Prepare the surface by sanding with abrasive paper up to 400 grit (more if you wish).

Use a clean soft rag. Dip this into the cream then put dobs of the cream on the surface of the timber approximately 2" - 3" apart (50mm - 75mm) quickly and evenly spread these dobs over the surface of the wood stop rubbing when you feel the rag start to drag. Allow the polish to dry, then buff with a clean piece of soft cloth, turning the cloth regularly.

Large surface application:

When working on a large surface it is best to break the application down into a series of small sections approximately 300mm square. Apply the cream as described above to each of these small sections until the whole piece is covered. Allow to dry then buff off as for small surface application.

The work is much easier if a mechanical buff is used. This can be a sheepskin, material or a circular brush, but BE WARNED you will not get a high shine if you use a high speed buff which is brand new or if you use a circular brush on high speed.

A higher shine will always be achieved on a flat surface if the polish is hand buffed rather than buffed mechanically.

You can further enhance a satin finish on flat work by applying a coat of our Traditional Wax.

IN ALL CASES THE SECRET TO A GREAT FINISH IS IN THE SURFACE PREPARATION

On most work it is best to use the following grit papers. 180, 240, 320, 400 and finer if desired. On pens etc. (on the lathe) also use 600, 800, 1000, 1200 grits & up to 2000 if desired.